My partner in Magpie Estate, the English wine merchant Noel Young, asked me in 1993 to make a Barossa shiraz that pushed the variety and style to the absolute limit. I did just that and made two barrels of 1994 which was aged in new oak.

The wine was made in 1995 and 1996. It was not made in 1997 because of the poor vintage, while 1998 went too far by any definition of pushing the boundaries. The last vintage was in 1999.

I had sourced grapes from a special vineyard and I lost this source. You may recall that the 1996 caused a sensation and was awarded 99 Parker points. After much searching for the right low yielding vines the Malcolm returned in 2005.

It was double oaked, meaning it spent a year in new American puncheons followed by a year in new French. The result is amazing.

It was well worth making a second vintage from this fruit, especially looking at the exceptional quality of the 2006 vintage.

The few rows we selected were cluster thinned and left to hang longer than the rest of the crop: this resulted in a yield of less than one tonne to the acre. Aged for 10 months in new American 500 litre oak puncheons, then racked into brand new French oak puncheons for a further 12 months. The wine was pushing 16% alcohol but we blended in 150 litres of one of our other premium Shiraz wines that just seemed to pull the wine together and add an extra dimension.

Black in the glass. The nose offers up hugely ripe fruit - black cherry, cassis, plum alongside toasty mocha oak, meat, liquorice and spice. Rich and textured with a velvety palate. Almost too voluptuous and seductive now. It's huge! - rich and sweet with masses of high toned super-ripe black cherry and cassis. This is allied to sweet new oak, spice and pepper. It's a big wine but the tannins are super-ripe, yet incredibly balanced and drinkable, though obviously has years ahead of it. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.

One for the cellar.